Have you had enough French blue cheeses this week? I hope not because we’ve got one more – Fourme d’Ambert – and it’s an oldie but goodie.

Production of this raw, cow’s-milk cheese reportedly dates back to Roman times, and its appearance does bring about a vision of ancient, craggy rocks, I suppose. Fourme d’Ambert’s crumbly texture and blue molding make look unappealing to non-blue lovers, but it’s a fantastic cheese to try even if blue isn’t your thing. It has a distinctively blue taste but is still easy on the palate, and I love the way the cheese coats the mouth without becoming too overwhelming. Fourme d’Ambert would be wonderful crumbled on a salad, but try it as part of your dessert course with some dark chocolates.

You won’t go wrong pairing Forume d’Ambert with a port, but other wines are just as suitable. Artisanal Cheese recommends a sweet Sauternes if the cheese is serving as your dessert. Other suggestions (fr0m Fromages.com) include Vouvray, Côte d’Auvergne or Banyuls.

Still unsure about playing matchmaker with cheese and chocolate? Check out the great article on cheese and chocolate pairings in this week’s Serious Cheese column.